Tenerife is shaking off its reputation for package tourism, but it’s not something that’s going to happen overnight. In the four years my family and I have spent Christmas in Tenerife, we’ve uncovered a soulful side of the island — one of volcanic peaks, ancient ports, and bougainvillea-draped farmhouses.
Admittedly, the climate helps; it's consistently up to 20°C higher than UK winter temperatures despite being a mere 4-hour flight away.
Our journey begins in Garachico, a historic port town which survived plague and volcanic eruptions in the 17th century and feels like a step back in time. Cobblestone streets take you past pastel-coloured houses and churches where the air is heavy with frankincense. This is Tenerife at its most authentic: sip an iced coffee in the Plaza de la Libertad, where locals linger under the palms, or try grilled octopus with garlicky aioli at El Caletón, a restaurant perched on volcanic rocks with a playlist of Latin reggae. On calm evenings you can swim from the rocks here as the waves swell around you. Despite the warm sunshine, the sea is too rough during our visit and the scene shifts to the sheltered bay next door where the more adventurous leap from the harbour wall into the water, while others queue politely at the iron steps. ‘Feliz Navidad’ echoes around us in a medley of accents.
Balmy city breaks, tropical getaways, and everything in-between.
From Garachico, a drive takes you into Tenerife’s volcanic heart. Here, the landscape transforms dramatically. Winding roads lead to Mount Teide, Spain’s tallest peak, whose year round snow covered summit looms above black lava fields and pine trees.
Further along the coast lies Los Gigantes, a small village nestled beneath towering cliffs that plunge dramatically into the sea. These volcanic giants rise up to 800 metres and serve as a breathtaking backdrop to the low-rise hotels and villas scattered nearby. While Los Gigantes is more touristy, it manages to keep its charm, particularly in winter when the area escapes the winds that buffet nearby Adeje. A natural swimming pool carved into the rock becomes the hub of activity, where locals and visitors alike gather to swim and sunbathe beneath the imposing cliffs.
We save the best for last and head south to the grande dame of Tenerife hotels — the Bahía del Duque. While new resorts seem to pop up constantly in this part of the island, Bahía del Duque remains timeless. Its colonial-style architecture, lush gardens, and sweeping ocean views have been a hallmark of luxury here for more than 20 years. With eight restaurants and an award-winning spa, it’s tempting not to leave but still, the surrounding area is worth exploring. Coastal paths stretch for miles along the distinctive black sand beaches — it’s perfect for a morning run by the sea. The hotel’s culinary options are impressive, we’re tempted by dining at the Michelin-starred Nub but ultimately can’t resist classics at La Brasserie, where dishes like lobster thermidor and chateaubriand made for a memorable New Years Eve. My husband is impressed by his glass of Monje Tinto — from one of the standout wineries on the island where volcanic soils add earthy depth to red wines. This is the most impressive hotel for tangible steps towards carbon neutrality which I’ve stayed in recently- separate bins require everything to be recycled and there’s no plastic in sight. Aircon is light or non-existent but the tall atrium allows cool air to circulate naturally- and only one of the pools is heated — the others built as natural pools with rocks to climb over and waterfalls to keep the flow are somehow more refreshing anyway. Tenerife with its low light pollution and clear skies is one of the best places to view the night sky and BDD has an observatory to make the most of this. The night owls of our party join the late night viewing session hosted by a specialist astronomer and come back enthused - pointing out constellations, planets and distant galaxies.
Here's why you should add it to your bucket list.
This is a side of Tenerife few visitors see: one of history, natural beauty and quiet sophistication. Forget the clichés — this island has stories to tell for those who are willing to listen.
For more information, visit thetaishotels.com.
