Everything I had ever imagined about a visit to The Maldives was exceeded by a trip to Gili Lankanfushi. The picture-perfect island nation is, if you can believe it, even more spectacular IRL.
Everywhere you go you feel as though you’re inside a laptop screensaver. The clear bright aquamarine waters, the creamy white powder-soft sand (which by the way, due to its composition of crushed coral particles, never gets burning hot underfoot from the sun), the swaying, perfectly squiggled palm trees set against a cobalt blue sky that explodes in fireworks of pinks, purples and oranges at sunrise and sunset every. Single. Day. I could go on and on…
But what I also hadn’t expected from The Maldives was to find a five star luxury resort whose profound commitment to sustainability and preserving the delicate natural ecosphere of its surroundings is non-negotiable - and Gili Lankanfushi is just that.
The Maldives can be a problematic place when it comes to sustainability. For a country already vulnerable to the perils of climate change due to its geography and composition of over 1,100 tiny islands, the tourism-dependent economy has caused vast pollution and waste disposal issues. Indeed, one of the more unsavoury sides of this paradise is a place called Thilafushi - or Trash Island - near the capital Male, which the Maldivian government created in the ‘90s in response to the severity of the waste disposal situation. Yes, it’s an island entirely made from landfill with waste spilling out in the sea. While a lot has been done since then to improve the situation, and many environmental initiatives have been launched by both the government and resorts, it seems Gili Lankanfushi really is going out of its way proving that there can be ways to help to this global crisis, if hotels and their guests are willing to adapt.
From the zero-waste policy to the overwater villas made entirely from reclaimed wood, (some from the 2004 Tsunami), even down to the organic bathroom toiletries packaged in refillable earthenware containers, the attention to eco-friendly detail really is impressive. At Gili, solar panels generate much of the electricity, rainwater and seawater is harvested and recycled; glass wine bottles are broken down and repurposed as construction materials and drinking tumblers. The island has a dedicated desalinisation plant which is used to provide all guests and restaurants with still and sparkling water in reusable glass bottles. Each guest is provided with a cotton bag to take their own plastic waste home with them; there is an on-island organic waste composition management system, a vast organic garden for vegetables for the restaurants - even the sunscreen in the rooms (not in plastic) is certified coral reef friendly. There are coral conservation programmes and a state-of-the-art Eco Centre. Indeed, this March Gili was awarded the prestigious EarthCheck Gold certificate - the world’s leading scientific benchmarking certification and advisory group for sustainable travel and tourism. Impressive stuff.
Who is Gili Lankanfushi for?
This is undeniably a destination for once-in-a-lifetime vacationers such as honeymooners. But what was lovely to learn was that many of the guests return year after year, such is the family-like feel of the resort. And of course, due to the Gili’s sustainability credentials, it will also appeal to the eco-conscious traveller. (It’s also a hit with recent A-list guests Chris Hemsworth and Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen.)
One of the most desirable aspects of Gili is its location on the North Male Atoll and therefore near the airport. Unlike most other resorts that require a sea plane transfer, Gili is a mere 20 minute speedboat journey from Male airport. (Although this does mean you occasionally hear planes taking off and landing if the wind is blowing in a certain direction).
The whole island is barefoot in keeping with Gili’s ‘no news, no shoes’ ethos which encourages guests to indulge in a total switch off from reality. (You can of course wear shoes, but most people don’t - even in the evenings at dinner or when riding the bamboo bikes throughout the resort. My one pair of heels stayed in my suitcase for the entire trip!)
The service is literally some of the best in the whole region, due to the fact that Gili has the highest staff to guest ratio in the Maldives: 45 villas and 300 staff which is approximately 6 staff for every guest at capacity. As Nicolas Khairallah, the charming GM told me: ‘This means we can offer guests the greatest of all luxuries - time. We find that guests want to get to know the team and this luxury means that for example, the waiter can take their time to chat to the guest while serving the meal.”
Each room is assigned their own personal butler who is on hand 24/7 to help with any requests or questions and can book you spa treatments, tennis, jungle open air cinema sessions, dolphin spotting cruises, fishing trips, surfing lessons, snorkelling or simply advise you on the weather forecast.
While there isn’t a kids club at the resort, there are many activities for families with children. Each restaurant has a kids’ menu and babysitting can be arranged by your butler.
What is the accommodation like?
All 45 of Gili Lankanfushi’s villas – 11 of which feature private infinity pools – are overwater on stilts. There is no on-island accommodation. The resort was renovated entirely in 2019 and has been rebuilt using reclaimed wood and upcycled furniture.
Whether you’re staying in one of the Villa Suites, Family Villas or Crusoe Residences (which are only accessible by speed boat) all interiors open out on to large wooden decks with steps directly down into the aquamarine sea. Some have overwater hammocks and all have roof terraces - which are heavenly for stargazing with a nightcap or even sleeping under the night sky. Then there’s the phenomenal Private Reserve - at 1,700 sqm, the world’s largest overwater villa, complete with its own water slide, open-air cinema - which is also only accessible by boat.
In keeping with the sustainable ethos of Gili, each villa has minimal air conditioning - mine only had one unit in the bedroom - and the rest of the property is designed to be cooled by the sea breeze.
But it's the bathrooms that truly defy belief, with their walkways across the water to the shower and a private, bamboo fenced off private sea pool to plunge into - naked if you so wish - from steps straight out of the bathroom. Just watch out for the crabs, rays or even baby sharks that swim by. Special mention to the ‘beauty fridges’ in each villa too that can be ordered to keep your products fresh.
Another fun fact, Gilli has its own timezone, one hour ahead of the capital Male specifically so that Gili guests can enjoy the optimal time sunrise and sunset!
The luggage choice of fashion's IT girls.
What does Gili Lankanfushi offer for foodies?
Two words: Chef Hari. Executive Chef, Mr Hari Govindaraj has worked at the resort for over 10 years and his passion, extraordinary talent and charm has garnered him the status of local celebrity. Hari’s culinary journey to The Maldives from his native India working on his Dad’s samosa stall is the stuff of Gili legend and if you’re lucky enough to spend time in his company, you will no doubt hear him regale it. Especially if you participate in Chef Hari’s splendid ‘plant to plate’ Gili garden gourmet experience in the shady and tranquil surroundings of his beloved organic herb and vegetable garden. There he will serve you a seven course tasting menu of plant-based creations so beautiful and mouth-watering you won’t believe your senses! From the aloe vera coconut ceviche to BBQ eggplant striploin steak strips and the piece de resistance a raw avocado, mango and chocolate cake made before your very eyes!
The resort has three restaurants that Hari presides over (and for the carnivores or pescatarians, there’s also plenty to choose from!)
Kashiveli – located directly on the beach and open for breakfast and dinner - and arguably the best breakfast spread I’ve ever seen!
Overwater Bar is lovely for lunch served from the open kitchen or the perfect spot for sundowners - the cocktails are fantastic. Four evenings per week see the beach and overwater bar is transformed with a buzzing market experience, with the Asian Street Market, Mediterranean, Spice Souk, Passage to India and Churrascaria BBQ nights. The beach also plays host to regular lanter-lit feasts.
A visit to By the Sea restaurant is a highlight of a trip to Gili. Nestled above the lagoon in the mangroves on the northern shore of the island, the clever wooden design makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a giant - but incredibly chic - treehouse. Contemporary Japanese and Asian fayre is on the menu here (incredible sushi) using only locally-sourced seafood. Reservations are advisable, as it is only open 5 nights a week.
If you want a night of true decadence, the resort's Underground Wine Cellar is a real treat. In the perfectly air-cooled intimate sunken wine cellar, you will be treated to sumptuous tasting menu paired with a seriously impressive wine collection set around a huge table made from a giant piece of driftwood that swept ashore.
What about the spa?
I thought that spas like this only existed in movies or my imagination - but at Gili’s Meera spa, not only are the treatments world-class, but glass floors in the six treatment rooms allow you to watch fish flit about in the coral as you have your massage! Open air walkways link the treatment rooms, steam room and sauna with relaxation areas all overlooking the sea. Therapeutic treatments use organic products by Voya and Meera products created on the island from the finest oceanic and plant extracts. Daily complimentary yoga classes take place at sunrise each morning at the beachside, near the spa. Guests can also organise one-on-one yoga and meditation practices, reiki, crystal healing or ancient singing bowl sessions.
What else is there to do at Gili Lankanfushi?
Surfing
Surfing is not something that springs to mind when you think of the tranquil, still waters of The Maldives, right? Wrong! Surprisingly, it is actually a top-rated surf destination championed by surfing legend Kelly Slater no less! With nearby hotspots such as Manta Point just a short boat journey away from Gili.
The resident, world-class Tropicsurf instructors at Gili's Surf Shack offer a variety of bespoke packages - and the still waters of the lagoons actually make the perfect training ground for novices (like myself) where you learn to stand on the board with a lot of wibble-wobble falling off too! For the more advanced surfers, Tropicsurf can even charter a private sea plane for the day to take you out and land at all the best spots for catching waves. Not only that but they can even fly in a professional to join expert surfers in the water, if so desired!
Snorkelling and Diving
The waters of The Maldives are of course world-renowned for their marine life and Gili offers complimentary snorkelling trips to see the giant sea turtles, moray eels, reef sharks, manta rays and much much more. For more seasoned divers, scuba trips can be organised to the best spots in the whole region.
Coral Reef Restoration
One of the most impressive elements of Gili's environmentally-friendly ethos is their Coral Lines initiative. Working closely with local marine biologists to monitor the health and biodiversity of the island, the Coral Lines initiative has helped create new environments for coral to thrive. And guests can get involved too! If you fancy having more purpose to your snorkelling trip, then visitors can have a guided tour of the Coral Lines and even help rebuild the reef ecosystems, helping plant and observe how the coral is growing. You can even adopt a section of the reef to continue the help preserving this paradise long after your suntan fades.
Nightly rates at Gili Lankanfushi start from £1,070 based on two adults sharing a villa with breakfast included.
