How to actually use hair rollers, because you're probably doing it wrong

If you're unsure where you stand on hair rollers, you might be surprised to hear that they're more popular than ever before. In fact, search #hairrollers on TikTok and you'll see they've been tagged in over 37K posts. Clearly, plenty of people are eager to master the art of achieving a voluminous, salon-worthy blowout at home.

Whether you’re deep-diving into TikTok tutorials or looking for expert-backed advice, we’ve got you covered. Below, we break down everything you need to know to perfect those bouncy, Barbie-esque curls – no stylist required.

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What type of hair rollers are best?

There are two main types of hair rollers: Velcro and heated. “Velcro rollers are the most budget-friendly option, perfect for adding volume and bounce, while heated rollers help lock in style for longer-lasting results,” explains Tyler Moore, expert stylist at Live True London. “There are also foam rods, which create a tighter wave, though they aren’t technically rollers. Ultimately, the choice comes down to personal preference.”

Do rollers work on short hair?

“Yes, but your hair just needs to be long enough to get a bend in it to create volume or to get a full rotation of the roller,” says A-list hairdresser and salon owner, Luke Benson.

Can you use rollers if you have fine hair?

Of course, and they can be great for creating volume, especially if you place them at the roots, but you might find your hair feels quite slippery, which is when the prep work and a styling spray becomes most important.

How should you prep your hair for rollers?

“I recommend washing the hair and, while still damp, prepping it with L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Pli,” says top stylist and L'Oreal Professionnel's UK Editorial Ambassador, Adam Reed. “Pli was originally designed for volumising and wet setting, so this product couldn’t be more perfect. If you are looking for a super volumised look then absolutely add a mousse [try Hershesons Zhoosh Foam or Moroccanoil Curl Control Mousse], alternatively, if you're looking for something a little more modern and wearable, your best is to use something with less hold and a bit more texture like a texturising powder [we rate KEVIN.MURPHY Powder Puff]– it’s about choosing the right product for the look you are trying to achieve.”

Do you always put rollers in dry hair?

That would be a firm yes if you're using hot rollers, but it doesn't have to be bone dry if you're using velcro rollers - about 75% dry is fine.

“Spray each section of the hair with your styling spray and then wrap the hair around the roller while ever so slightly damp,” says Adam. “What is absolutely key, is you dry the hair 100% before removing the roller, otherwise it will simply flop.” You can blast the velcro rollers with your hair dryer once in place as it will help to ‘set’ your curls, then leave them to cool gradually.

What is the best technique for using rollers?

"Make sure you are placing the rollers in your hair in the pattern you want, exactly like a blow-dry and think about where your parting sits. It is hard once set to change the direction of the hair," continues Adam. As a general rule, it's best to start with your fringe first, before tackling the central sections behind it. Then work outwards from your crown. But play around and work out what works best for you.

Luke also adds that it's important to make sure all the hair stays on the roller and it's as smooth as possible to avoid frizz and any messiness - remember this is about glossy curls not beachy waves.

Are there any mistakes we should try to avoid?

"A super common mistake I see with rollers is people not tucking the ends of their hair into the end of the roller, if you don’t do this you will be left with fish hook ends which don’t look the best," warns Adam.

How do we make it modern rather than old-school?

“What will make a roller look modern, in my opinion, is the products without a doubt,” he adds. "This look can be super cool when done right. Talk to your stylist if you're unsure on products. Another top tip of mine to make it modern, is to make sure you brush through the curls once you've removed the rollers, that'll give it a looser more lived-in look. Last, spray with a light hairspray to keep it modern, rather than rigid and stiff."

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How do you choose hair rollers?

"I like Babyliss Pro for heated rollers and there are lots of easily attainable options for Velcro rollers. Base your choice on the length of your hair and size of roller that will get enough revolutions to get a good bevel or curl in the hair," explains Luke. In short that translates as big rollers are best for long hair and on short or mid-length hair, medium or smaller rollers will give more of an effect.

That said, if you want more of a spiral curl, stick to the smaller sizes. “My tip is, the smaller the roller the more curl you'll get, the bigger the roller, the more volume you'll get,” says celebrity hair stylist Chris Appleton, who's responsible for JLo's bouncy blow dry.

Are rollers better than tongs or wands?

“If you're concerned about heat damage, non-heated rollers are the gentlest option compared to tongs, wands, or even heated rollers. That said, I always recommend using a heat protection spray regardless,” says Tyler Moore.

For stylist Luke, it all comes down to ease of use. “Rollers create a completely different finish, but they can be more user-friendly – especially if you struggle with the angles needed for a curling iron or wand,” he explains.

The TikTok secrets:

You've heard what the pros recommend, now what about the social media stars who are creating big blowouts across the web…

User @hannahjewelkohn told followers “the secret to a perfect blowout look?… Hair rollers to lock in the curls before they cool down." Given she's sporting a next-level voluminous blow-dry, we'll take her at her word.

Meanwhile TikTok's hair roller queen @aquiredstyle has been busy dropping tips to her followers. “I always wait for my hair to be at least 80% dry and then I go piece by piece. Blow dry with a flip and then you put the roller in. BUT this is where the most important part comes in. You need to make sure you're rolling it so that the bottom of the hair fully is sticking to the velcro like this. I literally roll, then pull. And then once you get half way, just roll it up and clip it in.”

And taking them out the right way is just as crucial as the way you put them in, says @oliviadayton who's roller obsessed. “If you aren't twisting your roller before you take them out, you're doing it wrong,” she warns.

If you want to wake up to the perfect bouncy blowout, take @vmeghanaaa's advice and wrap your hair around three soft rods before you hit the hay. Come morning, you'll have lots of volume and impressive bounce.