Knowing how to wash hair properly is a game-changer – because what is it about salon-fresh hair that leaves it so swishy, bouncy and glorious? Even if you’re not booked in for a blow dry, the wash alone leaves hair both silkier and more voluminous, often for days after. How?
It's a question I put to the stylist while I was at the backwash recently. "Is there a 'right way' to wash your hair, because whenever I do it myself at home, it never ends up with as much oomf or polish?" Her answer was interesting: “Most people who come to the basin have lovely, clean hair on top, then when you reach the mid-section of the crown and the bottom, it takes a bit longer to work through because it’s not been washed as thoroughly.” Huh.
Next, I put it to my mates: do they have a specific technique when it comes to hair washing? Most recreated the moves you'd see in a Herbal Essences advert, massaging their roots, but they admitted that they focused their attention on the top of their scalp and either gave the hair near the nape of their neck a quick once over, or missed it out entirely, same as me. None of us sectioned our hair out so that we could really give the hair nestled at the centre of our crown a thorough cleanse.
This oversight it turns out, could be the difference between achieving a a gravity-defying blow dry or not, since the oil and grime that disperses itself throughout our scalp (on the hair behind our ears, in the mid-sections and at the bottom) gets left behind, resulting in sad, wilty hair that feels weighed down.
“Putting a little bit of extra time and thought into how you wash your hair at home can leave you with that light, bouncy salon fresh feeling,” leading hair stylist, Hollie Rose Clarke, told me when I asked her if there was a solution. These are the easy tweaks she suggests to transform your usual hair wash into the formula for delicious swishy hair. Here's how to wash hair properly at home…
Brush your hair first
“Before you even get in the shower, brush your hair. This will help loosen dirt, remove stray hairs and untangle knots,” says Hollie
Make sure the temperature is just right
“Next up, water temperature is important. Wet your hair with lukewarm water. Water that’s too hot will open the hair cuticle and this will allow keratin proteins, your expensive salon colour and natural moisturising factors to escape," Hollie says. "It means hair loses not just colour, but strength, too.” So no more mega hot showers.
Double up on your shampoo
“Always, always wash your hair twice," she says. "The first shampoo removes dirt, pollution and product residue. The second shampoo essentially adds shine and gloss,” similar to double cleansing your complexion. Double-shampooing is what is going to give you that salon-level luxurious shine.
Technique is everything
“You should use a hazelnut-sized blob of shampoo. The first shampoo will not lather as much as it’s busy removing all those nasties. The second shampoo will lather more," says Hollie.
"Apply the shampoo directly to the roots and massage into the scalp. Pay particular attention to the areas that are harder to reach and often get overlooked," she adds. Specifically, "put those fingertips to work around the back of the ears and the nape of your neck.” Make sure you lift the top half of your hair too so you're hitting that middle section as well.
Rinsing makes all the difference (if you’re gentle)
“Rinse using lukewarm water," Hollie says. “Squeeze your hair in your hands during the rinse. You’ll know when all the product has left your hair as your hair will feel ‘squeaky’ clean,” she explains.
“If you don’t rinse properly, your hair will be flat and lifeless and feel somewhat coated,” notes Hollie although, remember, your hair is fragile – “wet hair is weak and more prone to breaking,” Hollie says – so be gentle.
Use your shampoo and conditioner to their full potential
“Shampoo and conditioner serve completely different purposes and therefore belong on different areas of your hair. Shampoo is your cleanser, so you only really need it on the areas that get dirty and grimy – your roots," notes Hollie.
"Conditioner belongs on the drier areas of your hair, so the mid-lengths to the ends – not the roots. Never the roots," Hollie says. “It always shocks me when clients tell me they don't use conditioner. I feel like it’s very misunderstood and kind of gets a bad rap because some blame it for weighing hair down and removing any natural volume you might have. That only happens when you put it on the roots. But conditioner when used properly makes all the difference. I always tell my clients, think of a strand of hair being the size of your arm and covered in fish scales (the cuticles). When we shampoo our hair, they slightly open and when we condition our hair it closes them back down, leaving your hair feeling smoother and stronger,” she explains.
As for finding the products that suit you and your hair type, "the best way to pick the right shampoo and conditioner is to seek professional advice. Ask your hairstylist. Most people don’t realise that many cheap products are full of silicones which leave behind a film that can dull hair and block hair follicles, and this impedes new hair growth. As for sulphates, sulphate-free shampoos are much gentler and keep the cuticle tighter so colour doesn’t fade,” says Hollie.
Finish off with cool water
“If you are able, give your hair a final rinse with cool water," Hollie says. "Cool water feels exhilarating, stimulates blood circulation, seals the hair cuticle and leaves your hair extra smooth and shiny which is a secret to it looking salon fresh,” she reveals.
Keep it smooth
“Last, I’d recommend investing in a microfibre towel,” says Hollie. "They’re much better for your hair, since the fibres won’t rough up your cuticles, which means less frizz. Plus, they absorb much more moisture which will help your hair to dry quicker," she says.
So there you have it, the secret to salon fresh hair is basically a DIY scalp massage away.
For more from GLAMOUR's Senior Beauty Editor, Elle Turner, follow her on Instagram @elleturneruk
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