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If there’s one thing Kendall Jenner’s go-to makeup artist, Mary Phillips, knows, it’s how to enhance the face with subtle yet transformative techniques. While her signature underpainting method – a technique where bronzer and highlighter are applied before foundation – became a TikTok sensation, she’s back with another insider tip that’s about to change the way you set your makeup. Enter: powder mapping.
In a recent Instagram post, Phillips revealed to her 2.2 million followers how she sets her base to get a seamless, natural-looking finish. The secret? Strategic powder placement. Rather than dusting one universal shade all over the face, she applies different shades of translucent powder to different areas of the face.
Could this be the key to achieving a soft-focus finish like Jenner’s? Here’s everything you need to know about powder mapping and why it might just be the missing step in your makeup routine…
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What is powder mapping, exactly?
In her Instagram video tutorial, Mary Phillips breaks down the powder mapping technique step by step, revealing how strategic powder placement can enhance dimension without looking heavy.
“So, a fun little makeup tip – I just applied a little bit of a light pink loose powder under my eye,” she says to the camera, showing us how the subtle tint helps brighten and counteract any darkness. “And then I’m using this translucent powder in the middle of the forehead and a little around the mouth.” These areas are prone to oiliness and need a touch of mattifying without dulling the skin.
To finish, she lightly dusts a powder that matches her skin tone across the rest of her face, ensuring a seamless, natural blend. “I don’t love a lot of powder, just enough to set the base,” she adds, emphasizing her signature skin-like approach to makeup. The result? A fresh, non-cakey finish that's free from shine.
How to incorporate powder mapping into your makeup routine
“Using different coloured powders is a great way to colour correct in a very subtle way,” explains celebrity makeup artist, Zoë Taylor. Rather than relying on a single shade to set your makeup, strategic powder placement can help brighten, neutralise, and enhance different areas of the face for a more seamless, dimensional finish.
Her advice? Invest in a pink-toned translucent powder to counteract dark circles. “Pink or peach-toned powder will make a big difference, as it cuts the blue or green from the under-eye area,” she explains. “If you want to completely disguise dark circles, I recommend using a colour corrector cream formula underneath and then setting it with the corresponding powder on top.”
If brightening is your goal, consider reaching for a yellow-toned powder. “Yellow-toned powders are a popular choice to lift and correct, as they add warmth and light to the skin,” says Taylor. These are best applied to areas that naturally catch the light – so under the eyes, along the cheekbones, and down the centre of the face – for an instant brightening effect.
As for the rest of the face? “A powder that matches your skin tone is best used anywhere you haven’t applied colour-correcting products,” she advises. This ensures an even, natural-looking complexion without altering the undertone of your foundation.
One common mistake to avoid? Choosing the wrong shade, which can leave the skin looking dull or ashy. “This only happens when you are using the wrong tone for your complexion,” Taylor notes. The key is selecting powders that complement your undertones rather than masking them – because the goal of powder mapping isn’t to flatten the face, but to subtly enhance its natural structure.
